A good value, although not quite as stunning as its sibling, is the medium ruby-colored 2004 Zinfandel El Dorado, a blend of Zinfandel, Primitivo, and Petite Sirah. A slightly herbal, spicy nose reveals notions of pepper, sandy soils, and briery notes. It is best drunk over the next 1-3 years. The wine possesses 15% alcohol.Tel. (530) 622-8094

The 1990 is the best Zinfandel I have tasted from the Boeger winery. Made in a succulent, medium to full-bodied, soft-as-silk style, it offers immediate gratification. The deep, fleshy flavors suggest plums, earth, and black cherries. The fragrant nose has not been destroyed by sterile filtration. This delicious, up-front style of Zinfandel should drink well for 5-6 years. Tel. 916-622-8094.

There is some amber at the edge of the ruby/garnet-colored 1981 Zinfandel Eldorado, and its bouquet is reticent and sterile. Some sweetness on the palate is mixed with fading aromas of herbs, coffee, and dried fruits. The wine is clearly fading.