The 2008 Pinot Noir Sanford & Benedict shows lovely focus, depth and vibrancy. It is one of the fresher wines in this lineup of 2008 Pinots. Dark cherries, spices and licorice are some of the notes that flow from this graceful Pinot. A juicy, enveloping finish rounds things out nicely. The Sanford & Benedict was made from a Mt. Eden clone. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2016. The Chardonnays and Pinots are the highlights among these new releases from Bonaccorsi Wine Company. I was less enamored with the 2007 Syrahs I tasted. The Pinots are vinified with indigenous yeasts and spend 18 months in French oak barrels, 60% new for all wines except the Melville, which gets 70%.Tel. (310) 994-3207; www.bonawine.net

From older vines comes this very dry, tannic young wine. It has a distinguished minerality anchoring the black cherry, cola and spice flavors. Almost old fashioned in style, with some ruggedness to the texture. Give it until after 2014. ——S.H.(10/1/2011)—— 92

More Chinese black tea, damp earth, forest floor, and blue as well as black fruits are present in the dark ruby/purple-hued 2007 Pinot Noir Sanford & Benedict Vineyard. Elegant and silky smooth with medium to full body and a long, rich finish, it can be consumed over the next 6-8 years. A strong line-up of Pinot Noirs from Bonaccorsi, these cuvees reveal distinctive personalities, but all offer impressively high quality. The alcohol content of the single vineyard wines ranges from 14.7% to 15.3%, and the pH’s go from 3.72 to 3.89. All of them spend about 15 months in French oak (40% new).Tel. (310) 994-3207

Dark ruby/purple-hued with fewer nuances, but a still impressively endowed personality is the 2005 Pinot Noir Sanford & Benedict Vineyard. Displaying chocolaty black cherry fruit, medium body, and more tannin and structure than the Fiddlestix cuvee, it is a less sensual, more masculine/structured effort that will benefit from a year or two of bottle age. Drink it over the following 7-8 years. Tel. (310) 994-3207