This tawny-black Riverland offering has a Port-like bouquet of stewed fruit, mulling spices and smoked meat. Superripe (perhaps overripe) blackberry fruit stars in the mouth, with ancho chile and black pepper flavors in supporting roles. This chewy Petit Verdot is, as the song goes, a bit too “Hot Hot Hot,” but is still an enjoyable drink.——D.T.(9/1/2001)—— 85