The estate's 2005 Passito di Malvasia Gravisano offers up candied orange peel, sweet spices and dried flowers in a mid-weight, slightly oxidative style that recalls Vin Santo. Truffles, spicecake and exotic Malvasia fruit wrap round the finish. The Gravisano is a modestly sweet dessert wine with 140 grams per liter of residual sugar. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2016. Quality at Botromagno has increased and become more consistent across the board since consulting oenologist Alberto Antonini arrived two years ago. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2003 Passito di Malvasia Gravisano is a very pretty sweet wine made from Malvasia. The fruit is air-dried for about a month after the harvest and the wine is aged for three months in French oak. Varietal floral aromatics weave into honeyed apricots and peaches as this round, expressive wine takes shape in the glass. This delicious, sweet wine from Puglia shows tons of personality in a full-bodied, unctuous style. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2013. Botromagno is among the leading estates in Puglia, a region that has yet to be widely discovered by consumers, despite boasting some of Italy’s most unique varieties. The biggest news at Botromagno is the arrival of consulting oenologist Alberto Antonini who has taken the reigns here beginning with the 2008 vintage. Importer: A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620