The 2020 Pommard 1er Cru derives entirely from Bouchard's domaine holdings this year. Wafting from the glass with aromas of cherries, raspberries, licorice and forest floor, it's medium to full-bodied, velvety and layered, with an ample core of fruit, ripe tannins and a long, perfumed finish.

Incorporating an appreciable percentage of whole bunches, the 2019 Pommard 1er Cru bursts with notes of peonies, plums, orange rind, sweet red berries and raw cocoa. Medium to full-bodied, ample and velvety, it's supple and precise, with an ample core of perfumed, sapid fruit.

The 2018 Pommard 1er Cru is showing nicely, wafting from the glass with aromas of dark berries, smoked meats, plums and loamy soil. Medium to full-bodied, rich and fleshy, with lively acids, powdery tannins and a generous core of fruit, it concludes with a savory finish.

I underestimated Bouchard's 2017 Pommard 1er Cru just after bottling, and the wine has opened up in the last eight months to present quite a different picture. Revealing a rich bouquet of cherries and wild berries mingled with rich soil tones, smoked meats, spices and violets, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and charming, its generous core of sapid fruit framed by ripe tannins. Any asperity that I perceived in the spring has vanished.