Breggo Cellars Gewurztraminer, Anderson Valley, USA

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The 2009 Gewurztraminer displays some of the spice one associates with this varietal, but not the exoticism or intensity that emerges from those of Alsace. Nevertheless, it is a competent Gewurztraminer, fruity and well-made. Drink it over the next year. This winery was a discovery several years ago, and since then has been purchased by Napa’s Cliff Lede. In fact, much of the winemaking has been moved to the impressive facility of Cliff Lede Vineyards on the Yountville Crossroads. The founding winemaker, Ryan Hodgins, was hired full-time, so I don’t think there’s any real change in style. In fact, given Cliff Lede’s resources and commitment to world-class quality, I would suspect quality will likely increase. The following wines are singular in that I don’t think anyone is doing what Breggo has managed to achieve with varietals such as Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, and Riesling in Northern California.Tel. (707) 895-9589

The 2008 Gewurztraminer did not blow me away as much as previous examples, as it does not possess as much of the spicy, exotic character this varietal can reveal. Nevertheless, it offers attractive notes of flowers, nectarines, and honeysuckle along with good acidity, medium body, and a delicious style. All of these whites are very reasonably priced for as good as they are. This superb white winemaking estate also knows a thing or two about fashioning delicate, feminine-styled Pinot Noirs. I was surprised to learn that it was purchased by Cliff Lede last year, and I was happy to see that the 2008s, which can be somewhat problematic in Anderson Valley because of all the wild fires and resulting smoke damage, were not affected. I did not have the opportunity to taste Breggo Cellars’ Sauvignon Blanc (usually one of the finest made in California), but I did taste their two cuvees of Syrah, the 2007 Syrah Alder Springs and 2007 Syrah, both of which were relatively average in quality.Tel. (707) 895-9589