One of the lighter, more fragrant wines in the lineup, the 2010 Pinot Noir Donnelly Creek Vineyard is laced with freshly cut flowers, spices and dark red berries. In 2010, the Donnelly Creek is a model of weightless grace and elegance, with lovely mid-palate presence and terrific overall balance. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2017. Breggo is Cliff Lede’s Anderson Valley project. This year, at last, I preferred the Pinots over the whites. The 2010s still have a sheen of new French oak. I would prefer to give the wines another 6-12 months in bottle to see if the elements fuse together a little more completely. Still, that is a relatively small critique. There is a lot to like in this range from Breggo.Tel. (707) 895-9589

The deepest, most structured of this quartet is the 2007 Pinot Noir Donnelly Creek Vineyard. It possesses a deeper color in addition to a denser, richer personality displaying more black and blue fruits, medium to full body, and additional tannin. It will reward patience as it needs 1-2 more years of bottle age, and should keep for 10 years thereafter.This superb white winemaking estate also knows a thing or two about fashioning delicate, feminine-styled Pinot Noirs. I was surprised to learn that it was purchased by Cliff Lede last year, and I was happy to see that the 2008s, which can be somewhat problematic in Anderson Valley because of all the wild fires and resulting smoke damage, were not affected. I did not have the opportunity to taste Breggo Cellars’ Sauvignon Blanc (usually one of the finest made in California), but I did taste their two cuvees of Syrah, the 2007 Syrah Alder Springs and 2007 Syrah, both of which were relatively average in quality.Tel. (707) 895-9589