The 2006 Pinot Noir Donnelly Creek Vineyard reveals a distinctive earthy, cinnamon, and Allspice-scented nose that was distinctively different from its siblings. A roasted herbal note reminded me of bay leaf. This is a more structured wine with higher acidity as well as plenty of intriguing fruit and spice characteristics. I couldn’t totally wrap my head or palate around this Pinot, but it is certainly excellent, possibly outstanding, just a very different representation of Pinot Noir.These wines were a remarkable discovery. Anderson Valley is becoming one of the “hot” new cool climate sources of not only white varietals, but also increasing quantities of high quality Pinot Noir. Breggo Cellars’ label pays homage to what used to be a robust sheep farming area, now replaced by grapevines. Winemaker/proprietor Doug Stewart is assisted by Ryan Hodgins, and together they have fashioned four brilliant white wines.Tel. (707) 895-9589

From a vineyard in Boonville, the valley’s warmest region, comes this massive, new-oaky Pinot Noir. It’s just tremendous in cherries, raspberries, blueberries and red currants, with drier, more tannic suggestions of Chinese tea and Bay laurel and dusty spices. Notable for the power of the finish, it’s a grand wine that should hold well for the next six years.——S.H.(8/1/2008)—— 93