The 2004 Chardonnay Clos Pepe Vineyard exhibits a light gold color, crisp, tart acidity, hints of melons, oranges, hazelnuts, and smoke, an attractive, medium to full-bodied palate, and very good length. Consume it over the next 4-5 years. Tel. (805) 735-9184

Playing it close to the vest with tart acids, a hint of minerality, and cool-climate aromatics and flavors is the elegant, Chablisien 2003 Chardonnay Clos Pepe Vineyard. It displays tremendous persistence, but appears to be completely closed at present. There is plenty here, and I am convinced this wine will reveal far more character and flavor intensity after another 12-18 months of bottle age. It should keep for a decade where impeccably stored. Tel. (805) 452-5609

A distinctive, earthy effort also reminiscent of a white Burgundy is the vibrant, zesty, medium to full-bodied 2002 Chardonnay Clos Pepe Vineyard. This wine possesses a distinct spiciness/earthiness along with notions of lemon zest, white peaches, clover, and crushed stones. Tightly-knit, full-bodied, voluminous, and restrained with terrific length, it is not yet ready for prime time drinking. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2012. One can’t say enough about this young team that is doing such spectacular work in Santa Rita Hills’ cool climate vineyards.Tel. (805) 452-5609

The exceptional 1998 Chardonnay Clos Pepe Vineyard, fashioned from young vines, possesses a distinctive mineral character as well as exceptionally high acidity. Some readers will rate it higher because of its tartness and ripeness. A tasty, grapefruit, pear, and orange bouquet is followed by a medium-bodied wine with a distinctive terroir character. If they can build more flesh and substance into the mid-palate and length, this could be a profoundly complex and multidimensional Chardonnay ... and very singular in style. Sadly, quantities of this wine is extremely limited, but this partnership will be producing more wine. Brewer-Clifton is a name to remember. Tel. (805) 452-4946; Fax (805) 963-2527