The Brezza family farms a beautiful spot in Cannubi, and their hotel and restaurant are just up the road on the way to the Barolo town center. Their 2018 Barolo Cannubi opens to a rather mild or subdued bouquet, although varietal tones of wild rose, redcurrant, lilac and crushed stone are nicely on display. The effect is quietly nuanced and pretty. Made with certified organic fruit, this is a graceful and slightly understated vintage, but it stands out well against recent past releases. Exactly 9, 316 bottles were released.

The Giacomo Brezza e Figli 2016 Barolo Cannubi shows a bright point of candied cherry and blood orange that rises above spice, smoke and tar. This wine delivers a classic playlist of Barolo aromas, and it has that light touch that underlines the elegance and the understated qualities of Nebbiolo. Like the other wines in this portfolio, this Barolo from Brezza shows some thinness that suggests a medium-term drinking window. This release comprises exactly 8,793 750-milliliter bottles and 396 magnums.

Like the other 2014 Barolos from Giacomo Brezza e Figli, the 2014 Barolo Cannubi appears more evolved and flat than it should be at this extremely young stage in its expected lifespan. This is problematic because we celebrate Barolo that evolves with time, but if the aromas feel tired straight out of the gate, it's unlikely that the wine will resist the challenges of long cellar aging. Unfortunately, this was a difficult vintage across the Barolo board and few producers were successful when it comes to harnessing the intrinsic intensity of the fruit. Dried spice, currant and flowers slowly emerge from the bouquet. The wine lacks inner energy. Only 9,733 bottles were produced.

The 2013 Barolo Cannubi lacks the focus and precision that I have encountered elsewhere in this slightly cooler but well-performing vintage. The bouquet here is slightly unraveled with diverse points of primary fruit and a smoky-mineral definition that don't necessarily line up in unity. There is some bitter almond and crisp white cherry on the close.

This Cannubi cru is slightly less expressive than Brezza's Castellero and Sarmassa wines. The 2012 Barolo Cannubi opens to pressed flowers and dried violets. It presents a delicate and streamlined personality that is tender and graceful on first impact. It continues to the palate where it flows with a silky and smooth intensity.