Thanks to its plush and velvety nature, this is a wine with universal appeal. Barolo Bricco Sarmassa opens in big fashion with aromas of black cherry, Indian spice, vanilla and dark espresso bean. It’s tight and tannic in the mouth but, fundamentally, the wine’s saving grace is that it’s never too extracted or overblown. ——M.L.(12/1/2010)—— 93