A definite impression of fresh-baked bread highlights the nose, underscored with dill and charcoal. Though a fair amount of Merlot is grown in southern Oregon, it has yet to establish a clear-cut persona, and so it comes across as either light or thin or green or tannic, at least in comparison to Washington and California, where the grape shines. This is soundly made and perfectly drinkable, but it finishes with an earthy, herbal, sour note that is not attractive. I’m not sure this is the right grape in the right place.——P.G.(11/1/2001)—— 83