Ample flesh and spice aromas and flavors lead in this red, with cherry, strawberry, tea and tobacco notes lending support. Balanced toward the tannins, with elevated alcohol and fine length. Best from 2016 through 2027. 5,416 cases made.??–BS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add

The entry-level 2009 Barolo Zonchera is engineered to appeal to those (including many foreign consumers) who show less appreciation for the astringent tannin and general austerity of Barolo. In fact, this is a soft and velvety wine that appears even plumper in this warm vintage. Bright cherry is followed by mocha, cedar, espresso and tobacco that are delicious for near-term drinking. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. Ceretto is a landmark estate and a world ambassador that has done much to teach Barolo appreciation around the world. Not only do they jealously safeguard their well-earned reputation for top-notch wines, but the various generations that have managed this historic winery understood sooner than most that the Langhe must also be developed to attract trouists. The various estates they own are adorned with massive projects of modern art and innovative buildings that make for irresistible touring destinations. As I write this report, I am looking out my window at the Ceretto glass “cube” that sits so regally on the crest of the Bricco Rocche cru above Castiglione Falletto. I have been taunted, nostalgically, each evening by the distant music and laughter emanating from that fascinating architectonic beacon of light and aspiration. Back to the wines: Ceretto is a brand of consistent high scores and accolades. But the 2009 vintage represents something of a lull for this venerated producer. I did not encounter the same clarity of voice or conviction of message that past vintages have delivered. My hope is that this is indeed a temporary lull. Importer: Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

An elegant and intense version, featuring licorice, tobacco, spice and earth flavors fusing with burly tannins. Offers a compact feel and a tightly wound finish, with a sweet and spicy aftertaste. Best from 2016 through 2035. 5,400 cases made.??–BS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add

Smoke, tar and licorice are some of the notes that take shape in the 2008 Barolo Zonchera. Made in a mid-weight, accessible style, this entry-level Barolo is best enjoyed over the next few years, while the fruit retains its vibrancy and juiciness. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. It’s great to see Ceretto – one of Piedmont’s iconic families – doing so well after a lackluster period in the 1990s and early 2000s. Ceretto’s top 2009 Barbareschi are easily among the very best of the year. Importer: Wilson Daniels Ltd, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

This red displays cherry, plum and leather notes, turning lean and firm by the finish, with ripe, dense tannins holding court. Fresh and linear in profile. Best from 2014 through 2026. 5,000 cases made.??–BS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add