The 2008 Gavi is fresh and perfumed in its peaches and flowers. This steely, focused white offers excellent freshness as well as focus. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2011. Importer: Frederick Wildm an and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

The 2006 Gavi is made in a fairly rich, generous style for this variety. Perfumed aromatics lead to a honeyed expression of apricots and peaches as this inviting white opens up in the glass. Drink this well-balanced, poised wine over the next year or so. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2009. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Gold in color, and rich in the nose, with apple and custard. More apple appears on the palate, where it’s joined by lemon. A warm and big finish with ample spice pushes the wine toward chunky and high strung. ——M.S.(12/15/2003)—— 84