The 2006 Pinero should have probably been released earlier and/or spent less time in oak. The tannins are now beginning to dominate the wine’s balance as the fruit continues to dry out. Sweet red cherries, crushed flowers and licorice linger on the delicate finish. The fruit will continue to dry out as time passes, exposing the tannins further. Anticipated maturity: 2012. Importer: Banville & Jones Wine Merchants, New York, NY; tel. (212) 268-0906

From 29-year-old Pinot Nero vines, Pinero is an elegant and fine still red wine produced by one of Italy’s most celebrated sparkling wine houses. Polished and finessed down to the smallest detail (those tiny berry aromas come forth so clearly), this wine shows the potential of the Burgundian variety in Italy. ——M.L.(6/1/2011)—— 92

The 2003 Pinero (Pinot Noir) is a dark, brooding wine loaded with cherries, blackberries, grilled herbs, smoke, French oak, tar and licorice. This is an especially ripe, extroverted Pinot. The wine’s balance and sheer sense of harmony are commendable. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604 8900