A richly satisfying Bordeaux blend that needs a little time to soften and mellow. Right now, it’s tight in tannins and filled with strong, primary fruit flavors of blackberries, cherries, currants and cocoa. The toasty oak is kind of all by itself. But the structure is clean and elegant. Give it until late 2010 to meld. ——S.H.(3/1/2010)—— 90