The 2012 Maranges 1er Cru Croix Aux Moines (which I noticed had been incorrectly chalked up as Marsannay on the barrels) has a very attractive bouquet with bright raspberry, bay leaf and wild strawberry scents, with just a mote of chalk dust. The palate is nicely balanced with crisp tannins. There is good weight here with blueberry on the finish that is reminiscent of a simple Bonnes-Mares, without the same level of complexity. This should be very appealing once in bottle, albeit in a rustic manner. Maison Camille Giroud is one of Burgundy’s stalwarts that can trace its roots back to 1886. I became acquainted with their wines in the 1990s and to be truthful they languished behind their peers: rather rustic fare that might have been acceptable in the 1970s, but not any longer. When a group of investors, including Ann Colgin and Joe Wender, bought Camille Giroud in 2002, they sought a young, talented winemaker to take the negociant by the scruff of the neck and kick-start a renaissance. That is exactly what happened when David Croix was hired as regisseur in 2005. Most of the fruit is contracted, though like Albert Bichot across the road, David prefers not to distinguish them from the two crus that are owned by the estate. David manages the vineyards and has summarized his policy: one contracted grower per cru in order to articulate a sense of place. “The wines from Camille Giroud tend to be more delicate than Domaine des Croix,” David explained, “and need less barrel aging. They tend to show red fruit, more cherries than my own wines.” In 2012, there are far fewer crus to choose from since yields were down 50% and some significant contracts, the likes of Latricieres-Chambertin and Corton Clos des Roi, were cancelled in their entirety since there was no fruit, which after all is helpful if you want to make wine. Still, what David Croix has managed to eke out from a challenging season is worth seeking out: refined and feminine wines that make up in freshness what might be missing in complexity. Plus they succeed in expressing their terroir as David always intends. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selections (Le Serbet) and through various US importers (see www.leserbet.com for full list.)

The 2010 Maranges Le Croix aux Moines shows great energy and focus in a medium-bodied style that is very appealing. Firm yet well-balanced tannins frame a core of expressive red fruit, flowers, mint and crushed rocks. This is a beautifully balanced wine from Camille Giroud that captures the personality of the year in spades. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. Winemaker David Croix describes 2010 as being similar to 2002, but with more tension. The harvest started on September 23. About two-thirds of the wines were lightly chaptalized. None of these wines had been racked at the time of my visit in November 2011. Giroud fans will note the addition of two new Volnays to the lineup. I will report on the maison’s 2009s in the April issue. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including Grand Cru Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 974-2500; Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640

The 2009 Maranges Le Croix aux Moines is gorgeous. It shows wonderful freshness and vibrancy in its dark red fruit, spices and licorice. All the elements are beautifully balanced in this harmonious, poised Burgundy. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Grand Cru Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 974-2500; Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640

(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Very ripe, opulent cherry nose. Full-bodied, fashioned in a ripe dense style that%u2019s slightly baked but has attack, vigour, and persistence.