The 2013 Aglianico del Taburno Bue Apis is a wine of large horizons and a big scope. The bouquet opens to generous tones of black fruit, distant cinnamon, tobacco and bitter chocolate. The mouthfeel is dominated by thick layers of concentrated richness and a solid tannic framework that keeps the wine neatly stitched together. I can't say that this vintage is technically perfect: There may be a distant touch of volatile acidity that adds to the sense of immediacy and buoyancy of the aromas. No matter, the results are very likable nonetheless.

There are only two barrels of the superb 2004 Bue Apis (100% Aglianico), which is made from vines that are over 180 years old. Made in a full-bodied, yet nuanced style, it possesses layers of dark cherries, grilled herbs, licorice, flowers and toasted oak that flow onto the palate with superb concentration and depth. Bue Apis is one of the most remarkable Aglianicos being made today, and the 2004 is not to be missed. It saw fermentation/maceration lasting more than 40 days followed by 18 months in new French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2024. Cantina del Taburno is one of Campania’s most promising estates. The winery is a cooperative and quality can be variable, but the top wines compete with the best being made anywhere. Filippo Colandrea is the oenologist. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

Dark and impenetrable with bold oak nuances, sweet vanilla extract and layers of Indian spice, this is a rich and dense wine that should be consumed with succulent cuts of meat. The tannins are tight and firm and this wine will age for many years to come.——M.L.(3/1/2009)—— 91

The 2003 Bue Apis (100% Aglianico) is another big, strapping wine from Cantina del Taburno. It’s perhaps a little gamier than the 2004 but its characteristic profile of black cherries, earthiness, tobacco, grilled herbs and toasted oak comes through with notable depth on the palate. The tannins are still very clenched so another year or two at a minimum is necessary for the wine to come into focus. Bue Apis is made from vines that are over 180 years old. It sees fermentation/maceration lasting more than 40 days and 18 months in new French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2021. Cantina del Taburno is one of Campania’s most promising estates. The winery is a cooperative and quality can be variable, but the top wines compete with the best being made anywhere. Filippo Colandrea is the oenologist. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411