There are only two barrels of the superb 2004 Bue Apis (100% Aglianico), which is made from vines that are over 180 years old. Made in a full-bodied, yet nuanced style, it possesses layers of dark cherries, grilled herbs, licorice, flowers and toasted oak that flow onto the palate with superb concentration and depth. Bue Apis is one of the most remarkable Aglianicos being made today, and the 2004 is not to be missed. It saw fermentation/maceration lasting more than 40 days followed by 18 months in new French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2024. Cantina del Taburno is one of Campania’s most promising estates. The winery is a cooperative and quality can be variable, but the top wines compete with the best being made anywhere. Filippo Colandrea is the oenologist. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

Dark and impenetrable with bold oak nuances, sweet vanilla extract and layers of Indian spice, this is a rich and dense wine that should be consumed with succulent cuts of meat. The tannins are tight and firm and this wine will age for many years to come.——M.L.(3/1/2009)—— 91