Keeping in theme with what you can expect of the Lagrein grape, this wine opens to an inky dark color with thick density and very little light penetration. The 2015 Alto Adige Lagrein Riserva Abtei Muri is redolent of ripe blackberry, candied cherry, plum and light shadings of spice and licorice. The wine washes over the palate in thick waves. What it lacks in complexity, it makes up for in density and girth. Some 58,000 bottles were made.

The 2014 Alto Adige Lagrein Riserva Abtei Muri is an earthy and savory wine that opens to an impenetrable and inky black appearance. This is an oak-driven red that closes with overt sweetness. Candied cherry and blackberry liqueur rise to the top, with spice and sweet chewing tobacco at the rear. The finish is raw and slightly disjointed, but the wine offers generous soft opulence in return. Some 50,000 bottles were produced.

The 2012 Alto Adige Lagrein Riserva Abtei Muri pours from the bottle with a dark, impenetrable appearance. This is a dense and inky red wine that reflects the properties of the Lagrein grape that is known for its saturated hues. The natural tannins of the fruit are soft and yielding but there are some spicy oak tannins thanks to a 15-month period of barrique aging. The bouquet opens to dark cherry and blackberry preserves with subtle tones of cinnamon and bitter chocolate. Lagrein offers modest aging potential, but this more elaborate Riserva expression should continue a longer evolution than most.

The 2010 Alto Adige Lagrein Riserva Abtei Muri shows an exceptionally clean and polished interpretation of Lagrein without the heavily rustic or sometimes raw notes you get with this local red-grape variety. Pulpy fruit aromas of dark blackberry and Maraschino cherry jump to attention but are soon followed by more evolved tones of leather, old tobacco and spice. The wine is aged 16 months in oak, with about 40% new oak. This historic Riserva was first produced in 1989. The 2010 results are impressive and the wine is drinking beautifully right now and offers a great price versus quality ratio.

The 2007 Lagrein Riserva Abtei Muri is a selection made from old-vine, estate-owned vineyards. It is quite possibly the most elegant, refined Lagrein I have ever tasted from Muri-Gries. I find superb clarity and freshness in the fruit, along with silky, textured tannins that frame the elegant finish. The rustic qualities that are typical of Lagrein have mostly been tamed, and quite admirably. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2017. Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404