The barrel-aged 2000 Lagrein Riserva Prestige is a fine example of the wine in its blackish ruby color, aromas of spicy blackberry fruit, gravel, tar, and roots, and firm, concentrated flavors, which nonetheless could use a bit of bottle time to shed a few light tannins on the close. Drink: 2005-2012. Importer: Wine For Everyone, Davie, FL tel. (954) 475-2611

The convent of Muri Gries, founded in the 12th century, continues to make wine, and its specialty, like others located in the hamlet of Greis, is the Lagrein grape. The barrel-aged 2000 Lagrein Riserva is its top selection, and shows much black berry fruit, the classic minerality of the gravelly soil of the plain of Gries, and notable intensity and length. Only a slight dryness on the finish keeps the score from going higher.