Like the top-shelf Arruga, this is a pure expression of Carignano grapes from pre-pylloxera vines. The 2016 Carignano del Sulcis Riserva Is Arenas, aged in barrique for 12 months, shows more life and vibrant energy than I encountered in its big brother, the more expensive Arruga. This wine presents a more chiseled and sharper quality of dark fruit with jammy undertones of black currant and blackberry confit. You get soft tannins with good power and energy here, something you might serve with a plate of grilled sausage. Some 15,000 bottles were made.

The 2014 Carignano del Sulcis Riserva Is Arenas opens to an inky dark and thick appearance. Blackberry fruit and dark prune emerge from the bouquet. The effect is very simple, succulent and chewy. Despite this cooler vintage, this wine tastes very ripe and almost sweet, with marmalade and jammy flavors that come as a surprise. It ages in oak barriques for 12 months. Fruit comes from ancient 50-year-old vines planted on their original rootstock.

The 2011 Carignano del Sulcis Riserva Is Arenas is a beautifully delicate and nuanced red wine, especially where the aromas are concerned. You can almost feel the sandy nature of the beach-like soils thanks to the bouquet's saline and marine highlights. Beyond those drying mineral tones are pretty layers of wild berry and sour cherry. The mouthfeel shows slight bitterness backed by fresh acidity.

From 50-year-old pre-phylloxera vines, the 2010 Carignano del Sulcis Riserva Is Arenas opens to ripe fruit aromas of blackberry jam with light touches of leather and spice on the sides. The effect is elegant and contained, especially on the palate where the wine performs smoothly.