The 2007 Carignano del Sulcis Riserva Kanai flows with lovely richness in its bright red fruit. Hints of earthiness, tobacco, licorice and tar develop in the glass, adding further shades of nuance. With time in the glass the wine's inner perfume and sweetness emerge, framing the fruit beautifully on the long, harmonious finish. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2017. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907

The 2006 Carignano del Sulcis Riserva Kanai is made in a ripe, plummy style, with copious French oak that dominates the wine’s balance. The fruit shows quite a bit of potential. I would think these old-vine, pre-phylloxera parcels are capable of yielding far more important wines. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2016. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907

The 2005 Carignano del Sulcis Riserva Kanai is a very pretty red made in a mid-weight, ethereal style. The wine reveals lovely inner perfume into its floral red fruits and sweet toasted oak, showing excellent balance and poise. This elegant, restrained Carignano makes a great introduction to the estate’s wines. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2013. These are the first wines I have tasted from Sardus Pater, a cooperative located on the Sant’Antioco islands, just off the southwest coast of Sardinia. The winery was founded in 1949 and today counts over 300 members. Consulting oenologist Riccado Cotarella oversees winemaking. His approach is often very much felt in the wines, yet I often get a sense that with a lighter touch in the cellar and a more transparent expression of variety and terroir these wines might very well reach a higher level. The raw materials certainly seem to be available, as the estate’s top reds are made from ancient, pre-phylloxera vineyards. This a beautiful set of wines from an emerging property readers should keep an eye on. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907