The 2008 Aglianico Irpinia Salae Domini is a gorgeous wine. A persistent vein of minerality frames layers of rich black fruit, tar, goudron and licorice, all of which come alive beautifully in the glass. This turns positively explosive on the finish. The Salae Domini needs another few years for the tannins to soften, but is a gorgeous wine. It makes a great introduction to Aglianico from the Taurasi zone at a relatively accessible price. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2023. Antonio Caggiano makes gorgeous wines that show the more refined side of Campania's indigenous grapes.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

Caggiano’s 2006 Aglianico Irpinia Salae Domini opens with a beguiling bouquet of sweet herbs, tar, smoke, leather and licorice. The dark fruit reveals tons of density and richness as it caresses the palate through to the long, impeccable finish. Menthol, licorice and ash add the final layers of complexity. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2021. Caggiano is one of Campania’s leading producers. The strengths here are the reds, which are some of the most up-front, immediate Aglianicos readers are likely to come across.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

The single-vineyard 2005 Aglianico Salae Domini opens with a burst of grilled herbs, earthiness and tobacco. This powerful red offers terrific definition in its fruit yet there is a measure of depth that is missing, which causes the structural components to dominate in the wine’s overall balance. Caggiano gives the Salae Domini 16 months in French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. Antonio Caggiano makes some of the most delicious and accessible Aglianicos in Campania, making his wines a great choice for readers who want to explore one of Italy’s most fascinating grapes. Caggiano offers three selections of Aglianico. The entry-level Tari, the Salae Domini and the top-of-the-line Taurasi Macchia dei Goti.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

The nose of this wine is a bit muddled with notes of blackberry and spice backed by white mushroom and molasses. It has harsh, cement tannins and astringent favors of black tea and spice. A Marc de Grazia selection, various American importers.——M.L.(11/1/2008)—— 84

Caggiano’s Salae Domini is made from Taurasi-designated vineyards and is aged in new French oak but given a shorter period of aging than is required to qualify as Taurasi. The 2004 is soft and approachable in its expression of plums, flowers, spices and leather. The appearance of early tertiary notes makes me think it will drink best fairly young. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2012.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411