The single-vineyard 2005 Aglianico Salae Domini opens with a burst of grilled herbs, earthiness and tobacco. This powerful red offers terrific definition in its fruit yet there is a measure of depth that is missing, which causes the structural components to dominate in the wine’s overall balance. Caggiano gives the Salae Domini 16 months in French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. Antonio Caggiano makes some of the most delicious and accessible Aglianicos in Campania, making his wines a great choice for readers who want to explore one of Italy’s most fascinating grapes. Caggiano offers three selections of Aglianico. The entry-level Tari, the Salae Domini and the top-of-the-line Taurasi Macchia dei Goti.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

The nose of this wine is a bit muddled with notes of blackberry and spice backed by white mushroom and molasses. It has harsh, cement tannins and astringent favors of black tea and spice. A Marc de Grazia selection, various American importers.——M.L.(11/1/2008)—— 84