Fontezoppa's 2008 Marche Rosso Dedicato a Piero is Pinot Noir, a grape that is exceedingly rare in the Marche. Sweet red cherries, crushed flowers, licorice and spices waft from the glass. The 2008 comes across as a touch frail in its aromas and flavors, especially on the finish. Accordingly, it is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2016. Fontezoppa is an excellent source for wines that capture the essence of the many varieties - both red and white - that are indigenous in the Marche. Today, the entry-level and mid-tier wines offer the greatest consistency, but I think it is just a matter of time before the higher-end wines are more dialed in. Importer: Soilair Selection, New York, NY; tel. (646) 244-4922

The 2007 Marche Rosso Dedicato a Piero is another idiosyncratic wine that needs considerable aeration to show its pedigree. Needless to say, initial notes of tobacco, rosemary, mint and mango are highly unusual in Pinot Noir. Varietal red fruit emerges later in this lush, opulent wine. Floral notes wrap around the fleshy, generous finish. This is a very ripe and unusual Pinot Noir, but hard as it may seem to believe, it works. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. These are the first wines I have tasted from Fontezoppa. Quality is inconsistent throughout the range but the best wines merit attention. Importer: Soilair Selection, New York, NY; tel. (646) 244-4922