The 2007 Serrapetrona Moro (Vernaccia Nera) shows the more rustic side of the grape. Distinct notes of earthiness and brett suggest the 2007 may have spent too long in barrel. Ultimately, I find much more interest and pure pleasure in the younger, fresher wines. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2015. Fontezoppa is an excellent source for wines that capture the essence of the many varieties - both red and white - that are indigenous in the Marche. Today, the entry-level and mid-tier wines offer the greatest consistency, but I think it is just a matter of time before the higher-end wines are more dialed in. Importer: Soilair Selection, New York, NY; tel. (646) 244-4922

The 2006 Serrapetrona Moro (Vernaccia Nera) comes across as mid-weight and slightly fleeting, with little of the character that defines the finest wines here. A dry, austere finish suggests time won't help things in a meaningful way. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. These are the first wines I have tasted from Fontezoppa. Quality is inconsistent throughout the range but the best wines merit attention. Importer: Soilair Selection, New York, NY; tel. (646) 244-4922