A terrific offering from the 1996 vintage, this Umbrian blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot (made by famed oenologist Riccardo Cotarella) exhibits a dark ruby/purple color as well as an intense nose of chocolate, coffee, and spicy oak. The wine is rich and pure, with a nicely-layered mid-palate, plush, sweet tannin, and a long finish. Notes of cedar, tobacco, and dried herbs emerge with breathing. It should drink well for a decade. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620