Loewen’s 2008 Thornicher Ritsch Riesling Spatlese is far more obviously marked by its botrytis than the corresponding Laurentiuslay. Smoke, ginger, and cardamom notes in the nose, along with distilled herbal essences, pineapple, and pink grapefruit that put me in mind of Scheurebe set the stage for a creamy and honeyed yet at the same time coolly herbal palate performance. The penetration of spices, herbal essences, honey, and pink grapefruit rind in the finish is spine tingling, even if the interactive complexity or refinement of the Laurentiuslay will never be approached by this Ritsch. I would plan on following some for at least 12-15 years. There is no question this once-famous site – for more about which, consult earlier reports – plays by its own rules. For instance, more than 90 grams of residual sugar – around a third more than the Laurentiuslay – sweetness is the last thing you think about while tasting this Spatlese. Karl-Josef Loewen associates the measurably high dry extracts of his 2008s with their ability to buffer high acids but also to convey mineral characteristics. He was pleased to point out that not one of his dry wines reached 12% alcohol this vintage, and only partly on account of that vintage itself. Especially with his oldest vines, pruning for multiple short canes and de-leafing at critical junctures are among the techniques being employed to diminish the accretion of sugar and maximize flavor. Small berries and clusters are also critical, says Loewen, who does not believe in green harvesting. “The trick,” he opines, “is to make little wine from many bunches, rather than little wine from few bunches.”Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The 2003 Riesling Spatlese Thornicher Ritsch, from a slate-riddled vineyard, bursts from the glass with floral aromas that importer Terry Theise accurately described as Wachau-like. Supple, pure, and focused, this is a light to medium-bodied wine with herbal tea, spice, and pear flavors that linger in its appealing finish. It should be consumed over the next 8-9 years. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300