Dusty cocoa and tree bark notes lead the nose, with additional supporting characteristics of black licorice, jerky, cigar box and tar. Mulled boysenberry and blackberry fruit forms the center. Bold and expressive, this fairly intense wine shows excellent concentration and depth of flavors. Pair with similarly assertive red-meat entrees.——L.B.(4/1/2012)—— 89

The 2006 PETITE SIRAH “OLD VINES” (from a vineyard nearly 40 years old) was aged in French oak for 12 months. It is a more successful varietal bottling than the Carignan reviewed this issue, showing more character and more intensity of fruit flavor. There is an interesting earthy note on the finish, a touch of the sauvage, that not everyone may adore, but it gives this wine a certain French feel that I rather liked. The price is also reasonable and it provides some value. The wine is relatively light and likely to be early maturing despite some impressive grip on the finish. There were approximately 1,083 cases made. Drink now-2015. Importer: Royal Wine Corp, Bayonne, N.J.; tel: (718) 534-0118.

The 2005 Petite Sirah opens with a lush, oak-driven texture and flavor. It is charming and frequently tasty, if also a bit simple. The mid-palate is modest in weight, and the structure is modest as well, although there are some light tannins. At age two, it is quite approachable, and not likely to reward much cellaring. There were moments when the alcohol showed a little. Drink now-2011. This is Kosher.This familiar and old (with roots back to 1882) winery is Israel's largest, once having controlled almost the entire Israeli wine market. Carmel got modern winemaking started in Israel and helped stake out the path to serious wine as well, although it has a bit of a checkered past. Not surprisingly, Carmel has been reshaping itself, establishing a joint venture called Yatir to turn out high quality wines, and making small production wines under its own label as well.Importer: Royal Wine Corp, Bayonne, N.J.; tel. (718) 534-0118