I am perplexed by the Carmenet wines. On the positive side, they possess elegance and finesse, but on the negative side, they are extremely tannic, and too high in acidity. Their leanness and austerity are at odds with the notion that wine is a beverage of pleasure. Carmenet's red wines are tannic and lean. They should last for 10-12 years. Tel. (707) 996-5870; Fax (707) 996-5302

I have enjoyed many Carmenet red wines, but I have noted an annoying tartness and leanness that has become more pronounced as these wines have aged. The recent portfolio of red wines includes a bevy of offerings. The modestly-priced 1993 Moon Mountain Dynamite Cabernet Sauvignon (from young vines) is a crisp, medium-bodied, streamlined Cabernet that technocrats will undoubtedly like more than I did. It is a good, reasonably-priced wine revealing fine cherry and cassis fruit with a touch of herbs, a borderline high level of acidity, good spice, and a clean, fresh finish. Drink it over the next 6-7 years. Tel. (707) 996-5870