Racy in acidity, this unoaked wine was bottled early to preserve fresh fruitiness. It’s clean and dry in the mouth, with fine, delicate flavors of citrus fruits, apricots, white peaches, green apples and a touch of honeysuckle and stony minerals. A brilliantly racy wine that needs no wood to be opulent and compelling. ——S.H.(10/1/2010)—— 91