I tasted two vintages—2020 and 2021—of the dry white blend of Riesling and Albari?o. The youngest of which is the 2021 Ekam, and it's a little riper than the 2020 but still high in acidity (with a pH 2.91 and seven grams of tartaric acid) and with some five grams of residual sugar. It's a majority of Riesling softened by a touch of Albari?o, and it fermented with indigenous yeasts in 2,500- and 5,000-liter stainless steel vats and was kept with the lees for nine months. It's varietal and delicate, soft and tender with purity and balance, clean and precise. 30,000 bottles and 300 magnums produced. It was bottled in June 2022.

There is very good freshness in the 2020 Ekam, and it has moderate ripeness at 12.08% alcohol, half a degree less than the 2021 that I tasted next to it. It has citrus freshness and a vibrant palate with a spark of acidity and very good integration of all the elements—acidity, alcohol and sugar (around five grams that go unnoticed). It has more aromatic complexity, an advantage of one extra year in bottle. These wines should develop nicely over a handful of years. 26,700 bottles and 200 magnums produced. It was bottled in June 2021.

2019 was a warmer year, and the 2019 Ekam is a little riper and has lower acidity but still has 6.3 grams of sugar, which makes it off-dry and not apt for all foods. It's mostly Riesling that softened by a touch of Albari?o, and it fermented in stainless steel and was kept with the lees for six months. It reminds me of the little-known category of German wine called feinherb, where the wines are delicate and have a touch of sugar, a little more than a trocken. It's more gentle, more open and less sweet than the 2018. There is great purity and balance, and it's subtle, elegant and very clean. Drink this as you would drink a kabinett. Like most of these wines, it has the acidity, stuffing and balance to develop in bottle. I understood it much better than the 2018. 30,000 bottles and 300 magnums produced. It was bottled in March 2020.

I also tasted the just-bottled 2017 Ekam, a white produced mostly with Riesling with a touch of Albari?o. 2017 was a very dry year with small grapes. They try to combine the high acidity of the Riesling in a cool climate with a rounder character provided by some botrytis. It was cold-fermented in small stainless steel vats with indigenous yeasts and kept with lees for five months before it was bottled. It felt so young and tender that it felt almost a sin to drink something like that. It's very balanced, clean, pure, transparent and harmonious. The palate is delicate but has inner power and strength, with focused, clean and chiseled flavors. Brilliant. 17,000 bottles and 100 magnums were filled in January 2018.

The one white that is bottled early is the Riesling (which always has a touch of Albari?o), so the 2015 Ekam was ready for tasting. 2015 is a slightly warmer year. It was bottled after some nine months in vat with the lees. The balance was achieved with slightly higher alcohol and lower acidity and residual sugar. This is a baby, with all the lanolin and puppy fat aromas of waxy apples and some yellow fruit, slightly riper than 2014. Despite having a slightly rounder palate, it also has great acidity. It will be better with some more time in bottle. 15,000 bottles produced.