The 2003 Vin Santo del Chianti Chiacchierata Notturna, made from a combination of white and red grapes, offers up generous dark cherries, dried figs, sweet mulling spices and pipe tobacco. It shows excellent overall balance, in an intense, weighty style best suited to firm, aged cheeses rather than cookies or sweets. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2015. This is a lovely set of new releases from Castelvecchio. Consulting oenologist Luca D’Attoma has worked here since 2003. A 100% Sangiovese is also on the horizon, and should be a fascinating wine given the progress the estate has made in recent years. Importers: Aventine Hill Wines Llc., Westport, CT; Atlantic Importing, Framingham, MA; tel. (508) 665-4272; Domace Vino, Shoreview, MN; tel. (612) 501-5799