The most precious wine made by this mega cooperative, the 2000 Trentino Vino Santo Arèle (500ml) is a pure expression of the little-known Nosiola grape. Fruit is harvested from the Valle dei Laghi at the foot of the Dolomites in October and is left to air-dry for up to six months on straw mats (called arèle in the local dialect). It is aged up to six years in small oak vessels called caratelli. It opens to a brilliant amber color with candied fruit, chestnut honey, toasted biscuits, caramel and almond paste. This dessert wine shows outstanding complexity with distinctive opulence and richness on the close. It will last years and increase in complexity.

This Vin Santo from Italy’s northern Trentino region is made with the little-known Nosiola grape and offers outstanding complexity and intensity of aromas. Almond skin, apricot, dried fruit, caramel, butterscotch and honey come forward layer after layer. This is a distinctive wine with round, opulent nuances and excellent length.——M.L.(5/1/2008)—— 94