Bollinger's meaty blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 15% Pinot Meunier, with 25% Chardonnay too, seems a bit at odds with its gorgeously elegant bottle silhouette, modelled after the proportions of the house's magnums. But it all comes together when you taste it, the predominantly premier and grand cru grapes working their magic and delivering a full but fresh expression with plenty of appley fruit, cleansing acidity with a lick of lime, and full, briochey aromas. Tasted by James Button