Schleret’s 2005 Riesling Herrenweg displays subtle diverse floral and citric aromas, a delicate palate with sage and fresh lime flavors, and a wafting, refreshing finish that makes an immediately drinkable virtue out of a certain looseness of structure and absence of real grip.Charles Schleret (who founded his small, eponymous domaine in the 1950s) may be signaling that he is near retirement, but little had changed since I last visited him nearly fifteen years ago including his enthusiasm, the generally high quality, the style (save for a tad more residual sugar) and simple hierarchy of his wines, their leisurely pace of release, or the large apron he wears over top of a jacket and tie. It is hard here not to succumb to nostalgia, and to become more than a little peeved in recognition of how rare Alsace wine with such versatility, modesty, simple labeling (!) and effortless grace has nowadays become. All this praise aside (and I tasted a range of older wines as well on this occasion) numerous Schleret 2004s (which are currently on the market) were obscured by an overtly milky cast as a byproduct of their malo-lactic fermentations.Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910 1990

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Almonds and white flowers are found in the aromatics of the 1998 Riesling Herrenweg. This detail-oriented, light-bodied, extremely subtle wine displays lovely apple, mineral, floral, and stone-like flavors. This well-made, lace-like offering should be consumed over the next 5-6 years.Importer: Neal Rosenthal Wine Merchant, New York, NY; tel (800) 910-1990.

The 1996 Riesling Herrenweg has an evolved, herbal, creamed mineral-filled nose. Surprisingly, this wine?s character is lively, youthful, fresh, and pure. It is light-to-medium-bodied, crisp, and filled with tangy minerals as well as lemons. Importer: Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyards, Shekomeko, NY; tel (800) 910-1990.

The earth and clay-scented 1997 Riesling Herrenweg reveals excellent depth of fruit, a medium body, and an oily texture. It is extremely expressive, packed with stone-like flavors, and lingers on the palate for an exceptionally long time. If this wine comes to terms with some alcoholic heat in the finish it will merit a higher score. Projected maturity: 2000-2006.Importer: Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyards, Shekomeko, NY; tel (800) 910-1990.