Schleret’s 2005 Pinot Blanc – largely Auxerrois – offers scents of lime and tangerine, a creamy, sherbet-like expression of citrus fruits on a refreshing palate, and a sweet herbal and citrus character in a soft, but delicate finish. (A faux Muscat character is very much in keeping with the behavior of Auxerrois in Alsace.) This is one of the few Alsace wines I could drink for breakfast, and is a model of the combination of personality and abundant flavor with delicacy and infectious drinkability that Pinot d’Alsace can deliver but nowadays too seldom does.Charles Schleret (who founded his small, eponymous domaine in the 1950s) may be signaling that he is near retirement, but little had changed since I last visited him nearly fifteen years ago including his enthusiasm, the generally high quality, the style (save for a tad more residual sugar) and simple hierarchy of his wines, their leisurely pace of release, or the large apron he wears over top of a jacket and tie. It is hard here not to succumb to nostalgia, and to become more than a little peeved in recognition of how rare Alsace wine with such versatility, modesty, simple labeling (!) and effortless grace has nowadays become. All this praise aside (and I tasted a range of older wines as well on this occasion) numerous Schleret 2004s (which are currently on the market) were obscured by an overtly milky cast as a byproduct of their malo-lactic fermentations.Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910 1990

I loved the talcum powder and flower-filled nose of the 1997 Pinot Blanc Herrenweg. It has a fabulous oily texture, a medium body, as well as a delicate yet flavorful core of minerals and honeysuckle blossoms. This vibrant and elegant wine begs to be quaffed, but its complex, nuanced character demands some degree of introspection. Drink this exceptional value over the next 5 years.Importer: Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyards, Shekomeko, NY; tel (800) 910-1990.

The lighter-styled 1994 Pinot Blanc Herrenweg exhibits crisp, subtle, citrusy notes, medium body, dry, orange-tinged flavors, and a fresh finish. Drink it over the next year. Except among knowledgeable insiders, readers are not likely to hear the name Charles Schleret compared to the likes of Colette Faller's Domaine Weinbach or Domaine Zind-Humbrecht. Although Schleret is a low profile producer, his wines are unquestionably exquisite, as evidenced by the 1994s reviewed in this segment.Importer: Neal Rosenthal. His selections can be purchased at his retail shop in Manhattan (tel. 212-249-6650 and fax 212-744-3354). His address is P.O. Box 658, Route 83, Shekomeko, NY 12567; telephone 800-910-1990.

Unfortunately, only 75 cases of the 1993 Pinot Blanc-Herrenweg made it into the United States. This wine is an extraordinary value, as well as a knock-out example of just what heights Alsatian Pinot Blanc can attain. From its dazzling nose of honeyed, buttery, Mandarin orange-like fruit, this pure, ripe, clean, medium to full-bodied wine is loaded with oodles of fruit. There is admirable freshness, vibrancy, and mouthfilling seductiveness to this Pinot Blanc. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. Charles Schleret may not be as well known as Zind-Humbrecht or Domaine Weinbach, but like several other low profile, great Alsatian wine producers (Bernard Schoffit, Albert Mann, Marcel Deiss, Albert Boxler, and E. Burn to name a few), Schleret consistently produces brilliant wines. It continues to be a source of personal frustration that the great white wines of Alsace are largely ignored by American wine consumers. I have frequently served these wines blind to discerning guests, and the oohs and aahs heard would suggest they would be rushing off to buy these wines by the case. But once the identity is revealed, Alsace's lack of "prestige value" compels these people to throw away their money on something else.Importer: Neal Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Shekomeko, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990.

Although highly admired in Alsace, outside France, Charles Schleret is probably the least-known of this region's finest winemakers. His basic cuvees are wonderful wines and the 1990 Pinot Blanc is excellent. With subtle, fresh, apple, orange-like fruit, medium body, and good acidity, this dry wine can be drunk over the next 2-4 years.