The 1996 Muscat d'Alsace Vieilles Vignes reveals earth mineral scents and a fresh, light-to-medium-bodied core of flowers and gravel. It is well-made, thirst-quenching, yet lacks opulence and charm. Drink it over the next 2 years. Importer: Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyards, Shekomeko, NY; tel (800) 910-1990.

The orange blossom-scented 1997 Muscat d'Alsace Vieilles Vignes was still in an awkward, post-bottling state when I visited the estate. It is a light-to-medium-bodied, silky-textured wine with loads of well-defined white fruit, mineral, and stone flavors. Projected maturity: 2000-2004.Importer: Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyards, Shekomeko, NY; tel (800) 910-1990.

The 1995 Muscat d'Alsace should be drunk over the next year or so to take full advantage of its exotic floral and fruit-scented nose. This dry, refreshing wine offers a knock-out bouquet that is hard to resist. For me, this is the perfect aperitif wine.Much like the Domaine Burn, Charles Schleret rarely receives the recognition he deserves, inexplicable in view of the extraordinary wine quality that routinely emerges from this estate. The 1995 offerings are gorgeous wines that unquestionably deserve more attention.Importer: Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyards, Shekomeko, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

Dry Muscat from Alsace is incredibly under-appreciated, largely because it is unknown and consumers have a pre-conceived notion that Muscat produces cloyingly sweet wines. When vinified dry from low yielding crops, the results are some of the most exotic and compelling dry white wines in the world. The gloriously fruity, rich, full-bodied, dry 1994 Muscat d'Alsace Vieilles Vignes is awesome. You can be sure I will be buying some to drink over the next several years, either by itself or with Asian dishes. I have also been told it is one of a handful of wines that works superbly with asparagus, but I have not yet tried that marriage. Made from extremely old vines, this dry wine must be tasted to be believed. Except among knowledgeable insiders, readers are not likely to hear the name Charles Schleret compared to the likes of Colette Faller's Domaine Weinbach or Domaine Zind-Humbrecht. Although Schleret is a low profile producer, his wines are unquestionably exquisite, as evidenced by the 1994s reviewed in this segment.Importer: Neal Rosenthal. His selections can be purchased at his retail shop in Manhattan (tel. 212-249-6650 and fax 212-744-3354). His address is P.O. Box 658, Route 83, Shekomeko, NY 12567; telephone 800-910-1990.