Pale to medium lemon-gold colored, the 2016 Cypres de Climens is a little subdued at this youthful stage, offering glimpses at candied orange peel, key lime pie, crème br?lée and musk perfume scents plus a touch of fungi. The palate has a wonderful line of freshness cutting through the densely packed flavors, finishing long and earthy.

Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting. The 2012 Cyprès de Climens has a slightly oxidative bouquet, touches of diesel fume rather obscuring much of the honeyed fruit, turning more towards bruised apple/malic scents with time in the glass. The palate is balanced with moderate weight: waxy in texture with well judged acidity, although the finish is very simple and lacking botytised fruit. To be brutally honest, I have tasted better Cyprès de Climens in other vintages.

Tasted blind at the Sauternes 2011 horizontal tasting. The Cyprès de Climens 2011, the second wine from Chateau Climens, is a huge a success for Bérénice Lurton and her team. It has a rich bouquet with scents of brioche, honeycomb and marzipan that is well-defined and powerful. The palate is well balanced right from the start, the keen line of acidity cutting through the viscous fruit with a caressing pineapple and lemon curd finish that is very seductive. What a beautiful Sauternes and of course, tasted blind, I had no idea this was a second label!

The 2010 Cypres de Climens is an outstanding second wine from Berenice Lurton and her team. It has a very clean and fresh bouquet with lanolin, dried honey and peach notes that are nicely entwined with the botrytis character. The palate is rounded with viscous honeyed fruit, a fine line of acidity and impressive volume and persistency on the caressing mellifluous finish. This is very seductive and as good, if not better, than many of its grand cru peers. Drink now-2028.