When I visited the estate in July, the 96s had recently been assembled in large stainless steel tanks. They will not be available in the US until mid-1998. The 1996 Coteaux du Layon-St. Aubin Les Simonelles is extremely reminiscent of the Petits Houx, but with the added dimension of fresh lemons and a touch of marzipan in its flavors. It is a sublimely elegant wine with crystal clear focus and rich fruit. Drink it between 2000-2018. Importer: World Shippers, Philadelphia, PA; tel: (215) 732-2018.

The 1995 Coteaux du Layon-St. Aubin Les Simonelles reveals a lively perfumed and floral nose as well as an oily, beautifully delineated mouth filled with pears, quinine, minerals and touches of orange zests. This elegant wine has an outstanding finish, suggesting notes of candied grapefruit and white truffles. Anticipated maturity: 1998-2012. Importer: World Shippers, Philadelphia, PA; tel: (215) 732-2018.