The most straightforward of the lineup, the 2012 Costieres De Nimes Tradition offers a transparent ruby color to go with light red fruits, garrigue and pepper. Medium-bodied, light and fresh, drink it over the coming year or two. Importer: DS Trading Company, Ashland, VA; Tel. (804) 798-7673

The Valcombe 2006 Costieres de Nimes Syrah-Grenache Tradition offers truly remarkable intensity and polish for its price. A deep purplish-black color and notes of ripe black currant, rosemary, dark chocolate and roasted meats emanate from the glass. A serious, smoothly-textured mouthful of black fruit, herbs and meat ensues, leading to a finish that – while slightly warm and stewed – clings with impressive, resinous, herbal intensity. This will be great with grilled meats over the coming year – and you won’t even need to throw rosemary on the coals as it is already in the glass. (I found Ricome’s “Prestige” bottling comparatively stiff and palate-drying from its oak exposure.)Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083