The Saint Martin 2008 Coteaux du Languedoc Tradition – a tank-raised blend of Grenache, Carignan and Syrah – is intriguingly-scented with fresh, ripe dark berries; spruce resin and rosemary; soy and smoky goose fat. Firm but fine grained and persistently juicy, it adds to the arsenal of flavors adumbrated on the nose a briny and wet stone-like undertone whose strong persistence – when combined with the bitter side of herbs and a firm feel – makes for a slightly austere finish. This should drink well for at least a couple more years. From a high rise overlooking both the Herault River and the Mediterranean – halfway between Pezenas and Meze – Italian-, American-owned Saint Martin de la Garrigue turns out some consistently excellent values under the winemaking auspices of Jean-Claude Zabalia. I tasted only a selection of samples that reflected one vintage each in white and red. (Had I not been late in so-doing, these notes would – and, geographically speaking ought to – have been included in my issue 195 report.)Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Until I tasted the wines reviewed in this segment, I was unfamiliar with this Languedoc estate. I will be sure to follow it closely given the consistent level of high quality wines they produce. The red wine offerings include a peppery, spice-driven, medium-bodied 1995 Cuvee Tradition. Made from a blend of Cinsault, Alicante, and Merlot, with a small dosage of Cabernet Sauvignon, it is exuberant enough to stand up to pizza. Its weedy, leathery nature will not be admired by everybody, but it possesses personality, which is more than most wines do at this price level. This wine was tasted in May, 1997.Kermit Lynch's wines are available throughout the United States, with the import label "Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, California." Kermit Lynch's address is 1605 San Pablo Ave., Berkeley, CA 94702; tel. (510) 524-1524, fax (510) 528-7026. In France, the Kermit Lynch office is located in Beaune; tel. 011 33 3 80 24 70 96; fax 011 33 3 80 24 18 64.