The Saint Martin 2008 Coteaux du Languedoc Tradition – a tank-raised blend of Grenache, Carignan and Syrah – is intriguingly-scented with fresh, ripe dark berries; spruce resin and rosemary; soy and smoky goose fat. Firm but fine grained and persistently juicy, it adds to the arsenal of flavors adumbrated on the nose a briny and wet stone-like undertone whose strong persistence – when combined with the bitter side of herbs and a firm feel – makes for a slightly austere finish. This should drink well for at least a couple more years. From a high rise overlooking both the Herault River and the Mediterranean – halfway between Pezenas and Meze – Italian-, American-owned Saint Martin de la Garrigue turns out some consistently excellent values under the winemaking auspices of Jean-Claude Zabalia. I tasted only a selection of samples that reflected one vintage each in white and red. (Had I not been late in so-doing, these notes would – and, geographically speaking ought to – have been included in my issue 195 report.)Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524