For thoughts on Chateau Ste Michelle’s uniqueness and recent evolution, consult my extensive April, 2013 text designed to introduce recent tasting notes. Ste Michelle’s 2011 Chardonnay – for a few astonishing statistics about which see the introduction to my coverage of this winery – is overwhelmingly raised in barrel, but as Bertheau explains “we never push this wine through malo, so probably only 70% or 80% goes through” and, like raising a small share in tank, this approach enables Ste Michelle to balance richness and freshness. To my palate, there is a bit of disharmony between the vanilla icing and caramel character on display here and that of tart-edged apple skin and citrus oils. That said, there is abundant sheer juiciness and a polished, manifestly lees-enriched texture, and the last thing you could say about this is that it’s boring or fails to stimulate the palate. What’s more, you have to call it good value. I suspect it will be best enjoyed within a couple of years. (The most recent Indian Wells bottling I tasted, from 2010 and the Wahluke Slope, exhibits the enhanced expression of malo-lactic conversion and barrel exposure – one-thirds new and majority American oak – that are the winery’s intentions, but I found it less successful due to its bitterness and lack of primary juiciness.)
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