A lightly petillant ice wine. Harvested at almost 38 brix, it is not as dense and racy as the ice wines of British Columbia or eastern Canada, but it offers its own pleasures. Here are details of sweet straw, rice cracker, caramel and honey, nicely interwoven and persistent, and never turning cloying or sugary.——P.G.(5/1/2008)—— 90