While all the focus in Bordeaux is on the reds, white Bordeaux is an unjustly neglected category. It can be made from a blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, but in 2004, the crispness of 100 percent Sauvignon Blanc, as in this wine, gives a wine that is light, fresh and immediately fruity. Made by top white wine producer Vignobles Despagne, the wine has flavors of grapefruit are crisp and are balanced with just a touch of tropical fruit. Bring on the seafood.——R.V.(11/15/2005)—— 86