This little-sung (outside of Washington) winery makes an eagerly-awaited rose of cabernet franc each spring, but here is the real deal. One hundred percent varietal, it puts the lie to the notion that cabernet franc must be tannic and tough. Here it is fragrant, firm and tart, with spicy apple, plum, date, fig and even golden raisin flavors. Interested, complex and beautifully crafted, without obvious oak and just 13 percent alcohol. ——P.G.(6/1/2006)—— 89