Anything remotely resembling true Chardonnay at this price is rare, but here’s one that succeeds, if at the most elemental level. It’s got proper apple and peach fruit and the requisite amount of vanilla-tinged oak, although probably not from new French barrels. It’s a tiny bit sweet, but hey, that’s the way people like it. And it’s very clean. All of which makes it a great value in Chardonnay.——S.H.(5/1/2001)—— 85