Packaged in a tall, 375-milliliter bottle, the Col d'Orcia 2016 Moscadello di Montalcino Vendemmia Tardiva Pascena is a beautifully fragrant, floral and nostalgic wine. I refer to nostalgia because I don't see many samples of Moscadello di Montalcino anymore. Those who know the history of the Montalcino appellation know that its first protagonist was in fact this sweet Moscato-based wine made with air-dried fruit. It was the big success of the region long before Brunello or dry reds wines gained in popularity. Col d'Orcia has remained faithful to its Moscadello program, despite labor-intensive efforts and a lukewarm market reception. Dried jasmine, honeysuckle, peach and candied pear rise delicately from the bouquet of this mid-weight dessert wine.

The Col d'Orcia 2014 Moscadello di Montalcino Vendemmia Tardiva Pascena (packaged in a 375-milliliter bottle) is beautifully fragrant and delicate with generous, albeit finely delineated, aromas of honey, perfumed flower, jasmine, orange blossom and just a hint of butterscotch. It ages in barrique for 12 months. The wine's texture is smooth and streamlined with a graceful and poised overall approach. This is a precious wine meant for a lucky few who will drink it. Some 5,000 bottles were released in January 2019.

The 2013 Moscadello di Montalcino Vendemmia Tardiva Pascena (packaged in a 375-milliliter bottle) opens to a pale golden color and mild color saturation. This Moscadello achieves delicate and downplayed intensity that is well suited to the natural fragrance and exuberance of Moscato. Indeed, this cooler vintage has helped tame and soften the wine and the results are beautiful and nuanced. Candied fruit, apricot and honey emerge from the bouquet. This wine is partially fermented in barrique and stainless steel. It sees one year in wood and another six months in bottle before its release. Some 2,700 bottles were made.

The thick, moist skin of a fresh orange is the single most recognizable element of this wine’s sweet nose. Honey, almond and lemon zest also make an appearance, adding extra layers of complexity. Thanks to its chewy mouthfeel and good length, this late harvest Moscadello would make an excellent companion to an orange or lemon based dessert dish.——M.L.(3/1/2008)—— 89